Today we continue to share some suggestions on winter green overwintering management for readers’ reference.
B. Snow Removal
Whether to remove the snow covering the greens is a common problem in the wintering process of turf. Related research gives a clear answer: In the late winter stage, it is necessary to maintain snow coverage on damaged greens as much as possible to protect them. Snow can prevent contact between turf and surface air (low temperature will freeze the originally warm soil, thereby reducing the cold resistance of grass). Snow can basically maintain the hibernation state of grass (extend the cold resistance period). If the snow melts quickly, the protection of grass hibernation will only work during the night period (lasting for several days), but this is enough to prevent serious damage. Of course, the lawn surface should be checked regularly to determine if there is any ice accumulation.
The turf can remain alive under the ice during the initial freezing stage. As the grass enters the hardening stage, the soil freezes and the temperature gradually decreases, the potential damage will decrease. The worst case scenario is that the soil is not frozen, there is rain and the temperature drops suddenly, and the damage caused by this is inevitable.
The application of black sand topdressing makes the de-icing process more feasible. This material can be highly controlled in certain types of winter weather. Studies have shown that applying 70-100 pounds of black sand per 1,000 square feet can quickly melt ice accumulation. Generally, in mid-winter, ice accumulation of 2-4 inches thick can be completely melted within 24 hours. When the water from the melted ice and snow needs to be discharged at a specific location, it is re-emphasized that the stadium needs to have an adequate drainage system to allow water to leave the turf.
C. Covering
To control winter damage, covering the grass (which helps reduce water loss from the lawn surface, prevent frost, and keep warm, etc.) cannot be ignored. The use of mulching tools is beneficial for lawn protection in dry areas. In addition to reducing water loss, it can even make the grass grow faster when the mulch is removed in spring.
Regarding the use of mulching cloth, studies have shown that in most cases, mulching with non-woven fabrics, shade nets or other items can play a role in insulation, but turf cannot adapt to all situations. Even if active preventive measures are taken, the top hydration phenomenon will still occur under the mulch. As mentioned above, the harm of temperature fluctuations to grass tissue cells is also mentioned. Therefore, winter mulching of greens is more to prevent temperature fluctuations from causing repeated freezing and thawing of grass tissue cells and frost damage. Different items can be selected for mulching greens, such as plastic sheets, straw curtains, quilts, etc. Some professionals believe that covering with thick sand or covering with shade nets is more economical. In addition, the mulch cannot be partially opened or damaged, and the sandbags pressing the mulch should be moved regularly, while ensuring that the greens are evenly watered.
The best time to mulch is one of the most common doubts raised by lawn managers. Executing too early will delay or reverse the hardening process of the grass. If there are several days of sunny weather in December, the temperature of the lawn will rise rapidly after being covered, and the dormancy of the grass is likely to be broken. Similarly, mild weather in late winter will encourage the lawn to turn green early and grow under the cover. The more standard method is to cover the grass as late as possible before the first significant snowfall, and to remove the cover in early spring. Some courses will also try to remove the cover during the day to allow the greens to adapt to the rising temperatures in spring. If the temperature difference at night is large, the grass will be covered again. Obviously, the weight of the cover required at this time should be reduced, and the staffing should also be adjusted.
D. Fertilization
Sufficient fertilization plays a key role in the wintering of the lawn. Before the lawn enters the freezing, organic fertilizers such as livestock manure, peat and humic acid should be added, and sufficient “wintering water” should be applied to ensure that the roots of the lawn can safely overwinter. Appropriate soiling should be carried out, and a mixture of sand or soil (soil with the same structure as the lawn bed) and organic fertilizer should be covered on the lawn to keep warm, retain water and provide fertilizer. Researchers tested the growth of lawns before winter and found that increasing potassium and phosphorus are important elements for grass to survive cold temperatures. To improve grass cold tolerance, a variety of fertilizers are needed, starting with nitrogen fertilizers, which are catalysts for grass nutrient absorption.
Research has shown that plant storage of carbohydrates begins to increase with fall fertilization. Controlling the available amount of nitrogen fertilizer can stimulate grass growth to the desired level without affecting root growth. Many times, the large amount of fertilizers used in late winter can ensure the green visual effect, but it is also very susceptible to damage and disease. Post-season fertilization programs should focus on improving the turf’s ability to cope with low temperatures, that is, encouraging and supporting the storage of carbohydrates (key to the hardening process), which can maximize the use of available nutrients and provide staff with a “window” to predict the state of the grass.
Post time: Dec-20-2024