Lawn classification standards
1. Special grade lawn: The green period is 360 days per year. The lawn is flat and the stubble height is controlled below 25mm. It is for viewing only.
2. First-grade lawn: the green period is more than 340 days, the lawn is flat, and the stubble is less than 40mm, for viewing and family leisure use.
3. Secondary lawn: The green period is more than 320 days, the lawn is flat or has a gentle slope, and the stubble is less than 60mm, suitable for public rest and light trampling.
4. Third-level lawn: green period of more than 300 days, stubble less than 100mm, used for public rest, covering wasteland, slope protection, etc.
5. Level 4 lawn: There is no limit to the green period, and the stubble height requirements are not strict. It is used to cover barren hills and protect slopes, etc.
1.Pruning
To keep the lawn smooth and perfect, the lawn must be mowed frequently. Excessive growth will cause root necrosis.
(1) Grass cutting frequency
① The special grass should be cut every 5 days during the spring and summer growing seasons, and once or twice a month in autumn and winter depending on the growth conditions.
② First-grade grass should be cut every 10 days during the growing season and once a month in autumn and winter.
③ The secondary grass should be cut every 20 days during the growing season, twice in autumn, not cut in winter, and once again before spring.
④Grade 3 grass should be cut once a season.
⑤Grade four grass should be cut thoroughly with a brush cutter once every winter.
Machinery selection
① Special-grade lawns can only be cut with roller lawn mowers, first-grade and second-grade lawns can be cut with rotary cutters, third-grade lawns can be cut with air cushion machines or brush cutters, and fourth-grade lawns can be cut with brush cutters. All grass edges must be cut. Use a soft rope type brush cutter or hand shears.
② Before each mowing, the approximate height of the lawn grass should be measured, and the height of the cutter head should be adjusted according to the selected machine. Generally, for special-grade to second-grade grass, the length of each cut should not exceed 1/3 of the grass height.
③Mowing steps:a. Remove stones, dead branches and other debris from the grass.
b. Select a direction that intersects with the previous direction by at least 30° to avoid repeated mowing in the same direction causing the lawn to grow to one side.c. The speed should be neither urgent nor slow, and the route should be straight. There should be an overlap of about 10cm in the cutting surface for each round trip.
d. When encountering obstacles, you should go around them, and the irregular grass edges around them should be cut along the curve. When turning, you should reduce the throttle.
e. If the grass is too long, it should be cut short in stages, and overload operation is not allowed.
f. Use a brush cutter to cut corners, lawns next to roadbeds, and lawns under trees. Brush cutters are not allowed to be used when pruning around flowers and small shrubs (to avoid accidentally damaging flowers and trees). These places should be trimmed with hand shears.g. After cutting, clean the grass clippings and put them into bags, clean the site, and clean the machinery.
(3) Grass cutting quality standards
①After the leaves are cut, the overall effect will be smooth, with no obvious undulations and missed cuts, and the cut edges will be flush.
② Use brush cutter-style hand shears to make up for the cuts at obstacles and tree edges, without any obvious traces of missing cuts.③There are no obvious signs of interlacing around irregularities and turns.
④Clean the site clean, leaving no grass clippings or debris behind.⑤Efficiency standard: 200~300㎡/h for a single machine.
2. Sprinkle water
① Special-grade, first-grade, and second-grade lawns should be watered once a day during the summer and autumn growing seasons, and two to three times a week in autumn and winter depending on weather conditions.
②The third-level lawn should be watered according to weather conditions, and the principle is to avoid drying due to lack of water.③The fourth-level lawn basically relies on water from the sky.
3. Weed removal
Weeding is an important task in lawn maintenance. Weeds have stronger vitality than planted grass. They must be cleaned up in time, otherwise they will absorb soil nutrients and inhibit the growth of planted grass.
(1) Manual weeding
① Generally, a small number of weeds or lawn weeds that cannot be treated with herbicides are removed manually.② Manual weeding is divided into areas, slices, and blocks, and the weeding work is completed by designated personnel, quantity, and timing. ③Work should be done in a squatting position, and sitting on the ground or bending down to look for weeds is not allowed.④Use auxiliary tools to pull out the grass together with the grass roots. Do not remove only the above-ground part of the weeds. ⑤The pulled out weeds should be placed in the trash can in time and should not be left lying around. ⑥Weeding should be completed in sequence by block, slice and area.
(2) Herbicide weeding
① Use selective herbicides to control malignant weeds that have spread.
② It should be carried out under the guidance of a horticulturist, and the herbicide should be dispensed by a horticulturist or technician, and the herbicide should be selected correctly with the consent of the greening maintenance supervisor.③When spraying herbicides, keep the spray gun down to prevent mist from drifting to other plants.
④ After spraying the herbicide, the spray gun, barrel, machine, etc. should be thoroughly cleaned, and the sprayer should be pumped with clean water for a few minutes. Do not pour the washed water where there are plants.⑤ Herbicides are prohibited near flowers, shrubs, and seedlings, and biocidal herbicides are prohibited on any grass.
⑥ Keep records after using up herbicides.
(3)Weed control quality standards
① There are no weeds significantly higher than 15cm in lawns of level 3 and above, and the number of weeds 15cm in height shall not exceed 5 trees/㎡.
②There are no obvious broadleaf weeds on the entire lawn.
③There are no weeds that have bloomed in the entire grassland.
4. Fertilization
Fertilizer should be applied sparingly and frequently to allow the grass to grow evenly. (1) Fertilizer
① Compound fertilizers are divided into two types: instant and slow-soluble, which are the main fertilizers for lawns. Instant-dissolving compound fertilizers are dissolved in water and then sprayed. Slow-dissolving compound fertilizers are usually directly sprayed dry. However, local burning will usually occur when applying slow-dissolving compound fertilizers, so they are mostly used on lawns with lower requirements.
②Urea. Urea is a high-efficiency nitrogen fertilizer and is often used for lawn greening. Excessive use of nitrogen fertilizer on lawns will cause the plants to lose disease resistance and become infected. Improper use of nitrogen fertilizers can also easily cause burns, so it is generally not advisable to use it more often.
③ Kuailumei is a liquid nitrogen fertilizer with similar effects to urea.
④Long-acting compound fertilizer is a solid multi-element fertilizer, which has the characteristics of long-term fertilizer effect and good effect. Generally, there will be no burning phenomenon, but it is expensive.
(2) Fertilizer selection principles
For first-level and above lawns, use instant compound fertilizers, fast green beauty and long-acting fertilizers. For second- and third-level lawns, use slow-dissolving compound fertilizers. For fourth-level lawns, there is basically no fertilization.
(3) Fertilization method
① After dissolving the instant compound fertilizer at a concentration of 0.5% using the water bath method, spray it evenly with a high-pressure sprayer at a fertilizer dosage of 80㎡/kg. ②After diluting Kuailvmei according to the indicated concentration and dosage, spray it with a high-pressure sprayer.
③ Spread the long-acting fertilizer evenly by hand according to the instructions, and spray water once before and after fertilization.
④ Spread slow-dissolving compound fertilizer evenly at a dosage of 20g/㎡.
⑤ Use urea at a concentration of 0.5%, dilute it with water, and spray it with a high-pressure spray gun.
⑥ Fertilization is carried out in points, patches and areas to ensure uniformity.
(4) Fertilization cycle
①The long-acting fertilizer fertilization cycle is determined according to the fertilizer usage instructions.
② For special-grade and first-grade lawns that do not use long-acting fertilizers, apply instant compound fertilizer once a month.
③ Kuailvmei and urea are only used for green chasing during major festivals and inspections, and their use is strictly controlled at other times.
④ Apply slow-dissolving compound fertilizer to second- and third-level lawns every 3 months.
5. Pest and disease control
Pay attention to the prevention and control of pests and diseases, and take effective measures to control them before they occur according to their occurrence patterns.
① Common lawn diseases include leaf spot, blight, rot, rust, etc. Common lawn pests include grubs, mole crickets, cutworms, etc.
② Prevention of lawn diseases and insect pests should be the priority. For first-class and above lawns, broad-spectrum insecticides and fungicides should be sprayed every half month. The selection of drugs shall be determined by the horticulturist or technician. For second-class lawns, spray them once a month.③For sudden diseases and insect pests, no matter what level of lawn, pesticides should be sprayed in a timely manner to prevent the spread.
④ Lawns that have been seriously degraded due to pests and diseases should be replaced in time.
6. Lawn Drilling, thinning, and replacement
① For lawns of level two or above, holes should be drilled once a year; depending on the growth density of the lawn, the grass should be thinned once every 1 to 2 years; after large-scale activities are held, the lawn should be partially thinned and sanded.
② Partial grass thinning: Use an iron rake to loosen the trampled part to a depth of about 5cm. Remove the raked soil and debris, apply soil improvement fertilizer and sand.
③ Large-scale drilling and grass grooming: Prepare machinery, sand, and tools. First, use a lawn mower to cut the grass again, use a lawn groomer to groom the grass, use a punch to drill holes, and manually sweep or use a rotary lawn mower. Vacuum out the mud and grass residue, apply soil improvement fertilizer and sand blasting.
④ If there are bald spots or dead spots with a diameter of more than 10cm in the second-level lawn or above, or if local malignant weeds account for more than 50% of the lawn grass and cannot be removed with herbicides, the lawn grass in that area should be replaced partially.
⑤ Parts of lawns above level two are trampled, resulting in serious poor growth, and should be improved by thinning out the grass locally.
⑥ For ornamental lawns of level 2 or higher that appear dry and yellow in winter, ryegrass seeds should be sown every year in mid-November, with a standard of 60 square meters/kg.
Post time: Feb-28-2024